Kumamoto Japan Kumamoto Japan SPRING TRAVEL LOG vol.1

Garth “Kakeru” Crouch

Logged by Garth “Kakeru” Crouch

A travel writer and translator who explores “off the beaten path” Japan.

Springs, Rivers & Waterfalls in the Land of Fire

OVERVIEW

Kumamoto Prefecture offers an abundance of stunning natural beauty. Known for its massive caldera volcano Mt Aso, and a sanctuary for lovers of hot springs, visitors to the area should not pass up the opportunity to experience the splendor and power of the natural springs, rivers, and waterfalls that dot the countryside of Kumamoto.

There are so many such places to visit in the prefecture depending on which area you’re in, so I will introduce the stand-out spots that I was lucky enough to visit in the Kikuchi and Aso areas of northern Kumamoto.

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Kikuchi Gorge --- Kikuchi & Aso City

Kikuchi Gorge (Kikuchi Keikoku in Japanese) is a scenic 4km long gorge in the northwest of Aso Kuju National Park and is the source of the Kikuchi River.

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The waters of the Kikuchi River that cut through the gorge form shallow plunge pools, and waterfalls as it flows down from the mountains. Appearing as a brilliant blue in places along the river, the water remains at around 13 degrees Celcius even in the middle of summer, making it a popular place for locals looking to escape the summer heat.

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However, Kikuchi Gorge is not just a summer destination! The forests here play a huge role in the beauty and atmosphere of the gorge, with broadleaf trees covered in vibrant green mosses standing proudly along the Kikuchi River as it tumbles and cascades through the gorge. Some of these trees are hundreds of years old!

Like much of Japan, the forests here put on a show for each season. The reds, oranges, and yellows of the autumn foliage are contrasted by the striking blue of the river, while a cold winter’s day may see the bloom of frost flowers. A hike along the gorge in spring not only allows you to get some fresh air after being indoors all winter but also gives you the opportunity to enjoy the bright green of fresh new shoots and foliage.

Kikuchi Gorge --- Kikuchi & Aso City

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Ikeyama Fountainhead --- Ubuyama Village, Aso District

Rain that has fallen on the Kuju Mountains wells up from the ground at Ikeyama Fountainhead at a rate of about 30 tons per minute. The water from this spring runs into the Tamarai River which feeds the Ono River and flows out into Beppu Bay in Oita Prefecture.

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Located inside the Aso Geopark area, this freshwater spring is surrounded by a lush green forest that has an almost magical air about it. There’s no long hike through the woods to get here, but that doesn’t mean that it’s not for nature lovers either. Even though it was only about 2 minutes walk from the car park, as there were no other people around when I arrived it felt like I was wandering through some secret grove.

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Once you pass over a small footbridge into the forest, the green of the aquatic plant life seems to intensify. At the source of the spring, the water is so clear that you can easily see the brilliant green aquatic plants and algae that carpet the bottom of the pool. It looks like something out of a fantasy movie.

By the side of the stream at the first small cascade, there is a well that is continuously overflowing with spring water. A ladle has been placed on the well so that visitors can try the refreshing cold water from the spring for themselves. For hygiene purposes, do not drink directly from the ladle, rather pour the water from the ladle into your cupped hand instead.

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Right at the far end of the spring, a moss-covered jizo (stone statue of a Buddhist deity) stands peacefully in the shallow water, while another stands on the bank in the background overlooking the spring, both lending to the mystical ambience of the grove.

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Even during severe droughts, Ikeyama Fountainhead has never dried up, so it has been nicknamed the Well of the Gods.

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After soaking up energy from this power spot, why not stop at Café de Gamadas located next to the car park for a cup of coffee before continuing on your journey! Of course the coffee here is brewed using water fresh from the spring! There are some cute cats around as well!

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If you’re staying at the famous Kurokawa Onsen hot spring area, you should definitely make the 15-minute drive out to Ikeyama Fountainhead.

Ikeyama Fountainhead --- Ubuyama Village, Aso District

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Nabegataki Falls --- Ogunimachi, Aso District

Ever wanted to walk behind a waterfall? Well, at Nabegataki Falls you can!

At only about 9m tall, Nabegataki is not the highest waterfall around. However, two special characteristics of the falls are what make it a stand-out place to visit, its impressive 20m width, and the fact that you can actually walk behind the falls.

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From the car park, a wooden stairway leads down through the forest towards the river valley.In the warmer months, you can apparently see Japanese freshwater crabs (sawagani) along the path, which is said to be a sign that the water here is very clean.

The cavity behind the falls is said to have formed due to a massive pyroclastic flow that spewed out from Mt Aso during one of its 4 super-eruptions about 90,000 years ago.

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The pyroclastic cloud flowed along the already existing river and, due to heat and pressure, then formed a hard layer of rock on top of the old river bed. As the river flowed over the hardened rock it slowly ate away at the softer layer that was once the old river bed which then formed a cavity behind the waterfall.

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The cavity is spacious, but the walk behind the waterfall can be wet and slippery, so be sure to have waterproof gear with you just in case.

For a limited time in the spring, lights are set up behind the falls in a special illumination event, while in winter, part of the waterfall can sometimes freeze, forming icicles.

Nabegataki Falls is only accessible by taxi or car, but it’s just a 20-minute or so drive from popular hot spring retreat Kurokawa Onsen.

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Nabegataki Falls --- Ubuyama Village, Aso District